1. CHERRY WOOD
Many individuals will see a piece of wood that is reddish in tone, and assume it is Cherry wood. This is one of the biggest misunderstandings that I have come across as a designer. "Cherry" is not a color of wood. Cherry is an actual species of hardwood. Color is dependent on stain chosen. However, one characteristic of Cherry is that over time, it will redden and darken dramatically from its original color. If you are shopping for cabinets or flooring, and ask for "Cherry" wood, be aware that this particular species is one of the more expensive. Furthermore, the color you see on the sample will likely not be the color you get, nor will it be the same 10 years down the road. Clients that need to color match would be advised to select a different wood. My advice is to select a quality hardwood in your price range, and then worry about color. Woods and stains CAN be mixed in a room, but it can be a bit of an art, so call me if you get stuck!
2. PLYWOOD
When a homeowner is shopping for casegoods (wood furniture/cabinets) and is concerned with quality, one of the top questions is "Is this solid wood"? In the case of cabinets and large furniture pieces, "solid" wood is hardly used anymore. That is the reality. This is partly because of cost, but mostly because of DURABILITY. "Solid" wood is wood that has been cut from a tree, but not synthetically altered (with the exception of kiln drying, staining and finishing). What you will find are "wood substrates", which fall into 3 basic categories: particle board, MDF (medium density fiberboard), and plywood. Particle board is the least expensive and will be used with either a veneer or laminate. MDF is also cheap, but a little stronger. The downside is largely the weight (very heavy), and it is extremely vulnerable to moisture, as are particle board and solid wood. "Plywood" is composed of layers of solid wood stacked at 90 degree angles, glued together, and then compressed. This causes the wood to remain stable and not warp. With solid wood, it is not a question of WHETHER it will warp, but WHEN. It is a natural characteristic, to expand and contract, to bend and split when exposed to heat, cold, wet and dry. Today, solid wood is utilized in smaller pieces such as dining chairs, drawers, raised panel cabinet doors, and moldings--- pieces that are non-structural. When it comes to structural integrity in a furniture piece or cabinet, "plywood" is your friend, not your enemy!
3. VENEER VS. LAMINATE
When shopping for quality wood products, homeowners often confuse "Veneer" with "Laminate" or "Melamine". They are very different materials. To start off with, "Veneer" is a thin layer of solid wood that is overlaid on top of a substrate such as "plywood". It is REAL wood, not fake wood. Veneer is mostly on good quality furniture, unless the substrate is particle board. MDF may be appropriate depending on the type of piece. "Laminate" and "Melamine" are two materials that are utilized in the same way as veneer, but are composed of synthetic elements. They are mostly found in lesser quality furniture and countertops. Melamine is a very thin synthetic coating that is used on particle board or MDF, and printed on using digital imagery to appear like real wood. Laminate, AKA Formica and Wilsonart, is similar, but consists of many more layers and elements, making it more durable than Melamine. It is commonly used in commercial design because it is tough, and easy to clean. Given today's major concern with the environment, green designers tend to frown upon Melamine and Laminate versus wood veneer. They carry more synthetic and plastic elements, often resulting in CFC's and other toxins which are very threatening to the environment and general air quality becoming a health hazard. That is not to say that wood veneer cannot be coated with harmful chemical agents, but that is something that is easy to overcome with the progress that has been made in the industry in recent years. Be sure to ask your designer/sales rep about available "Green" wood products.
4. HARDWOOD VS. SOFTWOOD
In the woodworking industry, "hardwoods" and "softwoods" are not literally hard or soft, but rather a reference to the species of wood. Softwoods are from coniferous (evergreen) trees, and Hardwoods are from deciduous trees. For example, Alder wood is technically a deciduous tree, hence a hardwood, but is definitely one of the softer woods available. Its density is similar to birch and pine. Do not assume that a "hardwood" will be hard when selecting flooring and doors. It varies widely by species.
In conclusion, there are many details involved with quality wood and casegood selection. I have a lot of experience with wood, and have seen the pros and cons of
different wood types and substrates. I am pleased to share the most common misconceptions and actualities that I have come across.
These are just to name a few, so if you have any other questions about
wood or are starting a large project involving cabinets and/or flooring, let me know and I will be glad to assist you. 925-895-1336
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